BUT
At the end of the road, like a cosmic oasis from the gods, lies Togoshi Ginza onsen.
The simple entrance is just like every other onsen I have visited in Tokyo, a foyer with lockers for your shoes and a vending machine cranking out tickets for your treatment du jour...but I felt that there was something different about this place as I handed my ticket to a smiling receptionist and ascended the steep staircase to the baths.
They use some sort of cosmic theme with the two baths (men and women) named 'sun' and 'moon'. I went on a Thursday, and the women were assigned to the sun bath. 
The onsen is open on weekdays from 3pm until midnight. Thinking that it would be slow right when it opened, I went right at 3:00. It was PACKED. Oh the shock. Oh the disappointment. I came all the way here and there wasn't even a place for me to clean off before I got in the spa. It seemed like people had lined up all day and had their spots staked out from the morning. I had to use a regular shower which I could have done at home.
As soon as I was clean, I hopped into the tub and instantly felt revived. The tub is divided into three different areas: a regular bath with creepy UFO lights illuminating the bottom, a few jet baths, and a 'denki buro', or electric bath where waves of electricity shoot through the water and make your body get all tingly and your muscles contract. It was WEIRD and I honestly don't know whether or not I like it. There was also a small outdoor bath on the third floor, but it was tiny and full of grannies so I didn't try it out.
In conclusion, Togoshi Ginza Onsen was pretty good albeit FRAKKEN CROWDED. The wonderful 42 degree waters, the denki buro, and the psychedelic, celestial murals on the wall above the bath were things that might entice me to come back, but I will definitely have to rethink the time slot I choose.
