Randomosity # 1 , Shinbashi-Yurakucho Gastronomic Walking Tour!

For a year and a half, I worked in a luxurious hotel on Tokyo Bay. As the only foreigner out in the lobby, I was often approached by guests from overseas seeking travel advice or recommendations. Each person had unique ideas about what a trip to Tokyo should consist of, and tailoring experiences to our guests' satisfaction was a challenge which I truly enjoyed. Generally, there were two types of guests: those seeking urban elegance with gourmet cuisine, and those hoping to experience the more local, homely side of Tokyo.

In any other city, I think it would be pretty hard to find one place that caters to both types of people. I know in my hometown of Nashville, "rustic" and "glamorous" are clear across town from each other. Tokyo is unique in this regard, as it has one spot that manages to have two worlds in one, a favorite for average workers and their Mercedes-driving bosses alike. The place, or as I like to call it, The Fun Place, is between Shinbashi and Yurakucho stations. (See Map Below)

Forgive my terrible map. I am a blogger, not a Photoshop prodigy.

If you like walking, The Fun Place is for you. It is an exciting yet peaceful stretch of road which runs along the train tracks between the two stations. The space beneath the tracks is chock full o' eateries ranging from traditional Japanese to superficial German, complete with Lederhosen clad waiters. Imagine sitting on plastic crates at an outdoor yakitori restaurant, sipping an Asahi beer and rubbing elbows with local salary men, or enjoying a plate of Korean kalbi with K-Pop crazed office ladies as a train rattles overhead. If a more elegant night is in order, just cross under the tracks for glamorous oyster bars, fancy sushi shops, and the newest Armani collection.

Keep in mind that, though it is the biggest city on earth, there are still many places in Tokyo that do not accept credit cards. Use the ATM machines in either Seven-Eleven shops or the post office to withdraw cash internationally. Depending on where you go, dinner for two can be between 30-100 dollars. Japan is not a cheap country, so be careful if you are on a budget and ask to see the menu if you are worried about how much you are spending. Also, the little pickles or bean sprouts some restaurants put in front of you are not free. They tend to be around 5 dollars and are considered the "table charge". I have tried to argue my way out of paying for it, but it didn't get me anywhere.

Aside from that, the adventure is yours to have! If you are planning a vacation to the Big T, take an evening walk through The Fun Place. You wont regret it.

Kamata Kuroyu Onsen, October 29th, 2012

When I first decided to move to Tokyo, I was considering living in a part of town called Kamata. Kamata is on the border of Tokyo and Kanagawa prefecture and is really close to Haneda Airport. I found a pretty decent and reasonably priced place and was pretty set on moving in...until I heard from my Tokyo-ite friends that Kamata is the shady part of Tokyo. Keep in mind that "shady" in Japan is about as scary as the Haunted Mansion ride in Disney Land, but still...something deterred me and I ended up choosing somewhere else.

Boy did I make a mistake!

Within Tokyo, Ota ward, the ward which Kamata is in, is famous for having excellent hot springs. The most interesting thing about the onsens located here is that unlike the many volcanic hot springs I have visited in my time, this one is fed by waters which are filtered through bits of leaves and plants buried a gajillion years ago. This gives the water a distinct 'green' smell and an interesting blackish brown color, similar to coffee.

The spa I chose was located in a run-down looking hotel right in front of the station. The hotel itself was built in the 50's or 60's and has been locally run by the same family since that time. The lobby is pretty small and looks more like an old man's living room than a hotel. There are colorful tiffany lamps all over and a big round kitchen table in the center with free iced tea. Soft music and lots of personal pictures make you feel immediately at home, and I had a hard time resisting the urge to hug the old couple who were running the front desk.

The fee for bathing was more expensive than I'm used to coming from Beppu, but it is quite normal for Tokyo. For 1,050 yen you get two towels, a toothbrush and toothpaste, disposable razor, comb, locker key, and an hour and a half in the bath. I had never been to a black onsen before, so I have to admit that I was a little freaked out by the murky color. You can't see the bottom of the bath and I was worried that it would stain me somehow.

After smelling the earthy, mellow aroma rising up from the bath, I was 100% fully convinced I had to get in whether it stained me or not. After a quick shower, I was pleasantly surprised by how lovely the bath turned out to be.

I was told once by another onsen enthusiast that part of understanding onsen is to understand their taste. Every type has a different taste, just as it has a different smell, temperature, color, etc. For those of you who wish to try, I cannot stress enough the importance of DRINKING FROM THE FAUCET not from the bathwater. This particular onsen had a very sweet flavor at first which quickly changed to a bitter and metallic taste that stayed in my mouth long after I was done. I guess the taste must be affected by one or both of these factors; ①Plants and fossils through which the water is filtered ② Rusty pipes from a rotting infrastructure. I hope it was the former!

After the bath, I felt so relaxed and warm from the inside out. My skin was silky smooth and the redness in my facial complexion seemed to have been reduced a bit. My aches and pains from a long night shift the day before were melted away and I felt nimble and light. I was close to Nirvana for hours after.

Kamata Kuroyu Onsen at Suehiro Hotel was WONDERFUL. My one complaint would be that I wish the water was a bit warmer. It was somewhere in the low 40s and I prefer a slightly hotter bath. Though it is a little pricey, I felt completely satisfied. I will be going again for sure.